Few mechanics questions [Archive] - Wizards Community

Few mechanics questions [Archive] - Wizards Community

Post/Author/DateTime Post
Ragitsu
09-22-07, 08:12 AM A few questions:

1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion?

2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off?

3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery?

4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets)

5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away?
JosephKell
09-22-07, 12:52 PM 1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion?Side rooms, corners... How much do you know about Urban Warfare? I'm gonna assume you know nothing and just explain the basics: it sucks. Too many confined spaces that limit your sight. Taking a room is one of the most dangerous things (unless you are willing to kill/destroy everything in the room with grenades).

2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off?I would only penalize if it seems fair.

Darkness already does penalize spot checks. I would also talk with your players to ask them if instead of using the full distance of the flashlight to let them treat it as a 360 degree lantern, if only because it is easier on you all to figure out which direction a flashlight is pointed. If you do this, I think shorting the distance to 20 feet of illumination with another 20 of shadowy illumination works.

For listen checks, it really depends on "noise." If there is a chatterbox in the group, perhaps give everyone a -2 penalty on their checks. If the house isn't well insulated for noise, it is possible that running water can be really loud (I was visiting my grandmother in her new home recently and when the shower next to the room I was in was used, it was seriously loud... like a 40 volume on a TV loud).

As I say near the end, older buildings tend to have thicker walls, especially if they predate central heating. Fireplaces are in a lot of rooms and the walls have to be thick to keep the heat in. But the game already has rules for listening through material.3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery?Check out Saga's healing mechanic via surgery. Also, I believe that players should be able to receive additional first aid once a day or after receiving surgery (whichever comes first).4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets)I don't know about hide, since most people don't really hide guns (if they own it legally).

But it is a mansion, so check one of the living rooms, surely the former master of the house had a hunting room with guns (variety of hunting rifles and shotguns) behind locked glass cases (but it is glass) with wooden shelves underneath with ammunition.

This is what I envision, only maybe a little bigger if it is a mansion (if people can afford it and they live near hunting grounds, it isn't unheard of to own several extras to loan to guests):
http://www.holmanstudios.com/images2004/furniture/case_tdguncase.jpg5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away?It depends on a bunch of things.
1. How smart is the monster? If it has animal intelligence, it won't understand the concept of persistence, so it will quickly forget there is anything on the other side of the door unless the PCs are doing stuff that would keep telling the monster they are there.

If the monster is intelligent and knows the area well, it wouldn't be unfair for the monster to beat on the door for a bit, then be quiet, wait for the PCs to check if it is safe, show that it is waiting, and then sneak around to come after the PCs from behind (maybe going outside to come in a window).

2. How does the monster hunt?
-- Sound? Opposed rolls.
-- Smell? Opposed rolls.

3. What else comes by? Perhaps an easier prey comes near.

4. Can the monster bust down the door? Does the monster have a reason to NOT damage the mansion? If a vampire owns the mansion, he/she won't be too interested in ripping through walls, but might be willing to break down a door since doors are not too difficult to repair.

But even animal intelligent creatures can be taught to limit the damage they do through classical conditioning. And animals might give up trying to get through a wall if they encounter too much hardness.

It really comes down to how old the mansion is. OLD ones (like pre-electricity) feature few rooms that don't have windows (those few rooms are closets, even basements have windows). Back then the primary source of light was the sun, then later gas lamps in the house. Yeah there were candles longer, but it isn't viable to use candles all the time for most people.

Even today homes rarely feature rooms without windows. I think the only rooms I have seen without windows are closets, those new toilet-tub separate from sink area bathrooms...

That is why entry halls typically are 1.5 to 2 stories high, so that they can have a window to let light in. In fact, now that I think about it, this must be why French doors became so popular: the window (which makes up like 90% of the window) lets light in!

Glass has a hardness of 1 and 1 hp/inch, so French windows/doors being like a half a cm thick should probably be Hardness 0 and 1 hp.

Finally, construction. Old homes are thicker. More primitive insulation makes walls thicker, doors thicker, windows have shutters (possibly both in and out of the window). Also, walls have strong beams in them to help keep the house up.

Now for a regular person to break through a wall, they would use an axe or pick to get rid of the drywall/surface and would easily find a beam and then go around them. But if someone were to "hulk" through a wall, there is a chance of running into one of these beams.

For studs, you can either map out where they will be (I think they are about every 5-7 feet) or you can have a percentage chance. However there are a few rules for support beams.
1. There is never a beam right under a window. There might be one around it, but not directly above or below it. But then, if there is a window, why go through the wall?
2. Studs are right around a door, so you can almost start counting from a door. People never barricade a wall, just doors and windows.

Modern walls are about 3-4 inches thick, but most of it isn't actually wood, mostly drywall. I would say the typical modern wall is either wood with hollow (a lot of inside walls) or filled with insulation/drywall (all walls that have an outside facing). Knock on your walls and compare the sounds.

A hollow wall would probably have two 1-inch wood parts, so hardness 5 and 10 hp. But it should take a while to clear a hole large enough to go through. To clear a 2 by 4 foot section of wall could easily take 5-10 minutes. I would probably just give each 1x1 foot segment the 5 hardness. So if an attack did 24 damage, it would apply the first 15 to one segment (5 to hardness, 10 to damage), then the last 9 to another adjacent part (5 to hardness, 4 damage).

Remember though, that if you were to break the perimeter of a piece (assuming there isn't a stud in the middle) the middle will fall out.

But Drywall isn't in the rules, I have a few ideas, but you might want to come up with your own stuff. But my thought is that drywall is kind of like concrete in that it isn't pieces of wood placed then nailed together, it is molded. So you can't just cut both ends of a piece and pull it out, you have to break the whole perimeter or scrap it out. So I think it should have less hardness than wood (it isn't that durable) but more hit points than wood. Hardness 0, 15 hp per inch seems to make sense.

Air Ducts: Old homes don't have air ducts, they have fireplaces and stoves, they have windows, but there if there isn't central heating/cooling, you won't see air ducts. Now it is possible that it was renovated and now has them. If the entire house is redone and the walls were hollowed out (with the inefficient insulation), ducts (like 3 inch diameter aluminum tubes) were put in with better insulation.

Remember some monsters might be able to use air ducts (even if they are ridiculously small). Vampires in D&D can assume a gaseous form. In fact, I can see a vampire spending the money to turn their mansion into the ultimate trap.

Well I seem to be rambling now, but I hope it gets you thinking.
Ragitsu
09-22-07, 02:26 PM A very informative post, JosephKell.

Two members of the party have good Listen modifiers (A Dedicated Hero / Fast Hero and a Tough Hero with the Law Enforcement occupation with Listen as skill) and in this particular setting, hearing will be more powerful than sight in these open areas.

As for hiding firearms, most people with kids or significant others tend to do this. Most likely in a safe, but other places as well. Though that's neither here nor there.

I own SAGA, so I will check out the Treat Injury rules.

The monsters in this case are slightly above animal intelligence, but not quite sentient yet (Think Int 3) They have good Strength (16) and use slam attacks. They haven't learned yet the nuances of the mansion itself (three stories, and a basement level) but may do so in time.

---

I also have this in mind for "safe rooms":

Dead-bolt locks: A standard lock for home security, this simple lock extends a steel bolt from the door to the doorframe to secure the entry. Multiple dead-bolts can be mounted on the same door to increase security. Lighter, domestic dead-bolts are usually of Average construction, but stronger, heavier dead-bolts can be up to High-security quality, increasing the DC of any Disable Device skill check attempting to open the door.

---

Some of the walls where renovation / early construction occured will have:

Particle board: Sometimes called press board, this cheap composite wooden paneling can be used to bolster the strength of a wall. Aside from its availability and inexpensiveness, particle board’s main advantage is that it absorbs much of the energy transfer from projectiles passing through it. In game terms, this means that the particle board’s Hardness and hit points stack with those of any material it is attached to.
(Particle board, Hardness 5, 8 hp/per inch of thickness, Break DC of 12)
joekap
09-24-07, 04:56 PM For studs, you can either map out where they will be (I think they are about every 5-7 feet) or you can have a percentage chance. However there are a few rules for support beams.

actually the standard "stud" is a 2x4 and they are spaces every 1.5 to 2 feet. and arent really for support but rather something act as a base structure for a wall, IE: the things you nail drywall to. also in demolishing alot of older houses most have in addition to studs, small strips of wood running horizontally from stud to stud with about 1/8th of an inch space in between. from floor to ceiling. these where used as added suport for what ever material you used to make the wall. and although they are not super strong they are a pain in the arse to break through, but they do look cool when you smash through them.
JosephKell
09-24-07, 06:54 PM actually the standard "stud" is a 2x4 and they are spaces every 1.5 to 2 feet. and arent really for support but rather something act as a base structure for a wall, IE: the things you nail drywall to. also in demolishing alot of older houses most have in addition to studs, small strips of wood running horizontally from stud to stud with about 1/8th of an inch space in between. from floor to ceiling. these where used as added suport for what ever material you used to make the wall. and although they are not super strong they are a pain in the arse to break through, but they do look cool when you smash through them.That's right, I must've been thinking of something else.
j0lt
09-27-07, 01:21 PM actually the standard "stud" is a 2x4 and they are spaces every 1.5 to 2 feet.

IIRC, they should be a maximum of 19 inches apart, and evenly spaced.

Ragitsu:
1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion?
Attacks from behind, above, or below are always a little more frightening. As an Urban Explorer (http://www.wraiths.ca), I've had my share of adventures through abandoned buildings. There's always a lot of dust that SHOULD be undisturbed, unless something that doesn't belong happens to have moved through there recently. Perhaps sets of unidentifiable footprints would make for some good foreshadowing?
2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off?
Let them hear things. Particularly with vague descriptions that will allow their imaginations to head over to "scary land". They say you never hear the bullet that gets you. This could work for monsters too. Let the PCs hear things, then when they're concentrating on one sound, something else moves in for the attack. :schemes:
3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery?
DRUGS! lol
But seriously, why not give a medkit a little bonus to Treat Injury checks for the purpose of recovering hit points? It wouldn't be unbalancing to allow characters to heal up a bit from time to time.
4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets)
JosephKell has already mentioned the hunting closet. In remote places, some people keep a shotgun on the mantel. Aside from that, a revolver in the nightstand in the master bedroom would make sense.
5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away?
Perhaps opposed checks (Str) for movement, provide some obstacles that could be tipped over into the monster's path (vase on a stand, grandfather clock, etc...). Perhaps a stairway that the PC could jump down to gain a bit of breathing room.
Dex
09-28-07, 10:21 AM A few questions:

1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion?

Enemies on the ceiling or following at a safe distance behind them. You'd be surprised how many people forget to look up/back (unless they've played an Aliens adventure, or are as paranoid as my players and co-adventurers :P)

2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off?
Sometimes the fact that they can hear something that other party members can't can be a really good method of scaring them. If only 1 player hears or sees something, pass it to them on a note instead of telling everyone "He sees something dart past the doorway". That way the players might think he's starting to hallucinate, or something.

3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery?"
Don't. Players should be warned that healing is at a minimum, and get them to make backup characters for when (not if) they die. A player might run from encounters they might otherwise charge into fearlessly if they are on low hp and that's what you're aiming for, right?

4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets)
Corpses of security guards, the desk draws of someone concerned about their safety might have a revolver or derringer, on top of high shelves (if you haven't seen the end of the Bourne Identity, you should). For a decoy you might have a blunderbuss or something mounted over a fireplace, but it doesn't work because, of course, it's a display piece.

5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away?[/QUOTE]
Don't forget exhaustion checks if they've been running for a while. It stays interested. More monsters come. It breaks down the door. The monsters might stumble upon another way in - like through the ceiling, ventilation shafts, under the floorboards, windows, etc.
joekap
09-29-07, 05:08 PM IIRC, they should be a maximum of 19 inches apart, and evenly spaced.

yeah something like that. thats the standard in modern homes. but i have found that back in the day not everyone's 19 inches was the same...;)
on another note what are those little thin boards that run horazontally called???
j0lt
09-29-07, 09:25 PM yeah something like that. thats the standard in modern homes. but i have found that back in the day not everyone's 19 inches was the same...;)
on another note what are those little thin boards that run horazontally called???

I believe they're called Slats, but I'm not 100% sure.
joekap
09-30-07, 02:05 PM thats what i thought too but something keeps telling me hey have another name.
either way when a monster smashes through or throws someone through them (or a bored guy demoing an old house jumps through them) they look hella cool....like the wall now has ribs pokeing through.
j0lt
09-30-07, 09:18 PM thats what i thought too but something keeps telling me hey have another name.
either way when a monster smashes through or throws someone through them (or a bored guy demoing an old house jumps through them) they look hella cool....like the wall now has ribs pokeing through.

Scary inspiration! What if the old abandoned mansion had human ribs for slats?! :eek:
joekap
10-06-07, 01:26 PM that would be cool, then the walls start oozing some black icor....mmm yummy aspestose (Sp?) and wall blood

Post/Author/DateTime	Post
Ragitsu 09-22-07, 08:12 AM	A few questions: 1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion? 2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off? 3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery? 4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets) 5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away?
JosephKell 09-22-07, 12:52 PM	1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion?Side rooms, corners... How much do you know about Urban Warfare? I'm gonna assume you know nothing and just explain the basics: it sucks. Too many confined spaces that limit your sight. Taking a room is one of the most dangerous things (unless you are willing to kill/destroy everything in the room with grenades). 2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off?I would only penalize if it seems fair. Darkness already does penalize spot checks. I would also talk with your players to ask them if instead of using the full distance of the flashlight to let them treat it as a 360 degree lantern, if only because it is easier on you all to figure out which direction a flashlight is pointed. If you do this, I think shorting the distance to 20 feet of illumination with another 20 of shadowy illumination works. For listen checks, it really depends on "noise." If there is a chatterbox in the group, perhaps give everyone a -2 penalty on their checks. If the house isn't well insulated for noise, it is possible that running water can be really loud (I was visiting my grandmother in her new home recently and when the shower next to the room I was in was used, it was seriously loud... like a 40 volume on a TV loud). As I say near the end, older buildings tend to have thicker walls, especially if they predate central heating. Fireplaces are in a lot of rooms and the walls have to be thick to keep the heat in. But the game already has rules for listening through material.3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery?Check out Saga's healing mechanic via surgery. Also, I believe that players should be able to receive additional first aid once a day or after receiving surgery (whichever comes first).4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets)I don't know about hide, since most people don't really hide guns (if they own it legally). But it is a mansion, so check one of the living rooms, surely the former master of the house had a hunting room with guns (variety of hunting rifles and shotguns) behind locked glass cases (but it is glass) with wooden shelves underneath with ammunition. This is what I envision, only maybe a little bigger if it is a mansion (if people can afford it and they live near hunting grounds, it isn't unheard of to own several extras to loan to guests): http://www.holmanstudios.com/images2004/furniture/case_tdguncase.jpg5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away?It depends on a bunch of things. 1. How smart is the monster? If it has animal intelligence, it won't understand the concept of persistence, so it will quickly forget there is anything on the other side of the door unless the PCs are doing stuff that would keep telling the monster they are there. If the monster is intelligent and knows the area well, it wouldn't be unfair for the monster to beat on the door for a bit, then be quiet, wait for the PCs to check if it is safe, show that it is waiting, and then sneak around to come after the PCs from behind (maybe going outside to come in a window). 2. How does the monster hunt? -- Sound? Opposed rolls. -- Smell? Opposed rolls. 3. What else comes by? Perhaps an easier prey comes near. 4. Can the monster bust down the door? Does the monster have a reason to NOT damage the mansion? If a vampire owns the mansion, he/she won't be too interested in ripping through walls, but might be willing to break down a door since doors are not too difficult to repair. But even animal intelligent creatures can be taught to limit the damage they do through classical conditioning. And animals might give up trying to get through a wall if they encounter too much hardness. It really comes down to how old the mansion is. OLD ones (like pre-electricity) feature few rooms that don't have windows (those few rooms are closets, even basements have windows). Back then the primary source of light was the sun, then later gas lamps in the house. Yeah there were candles longer, but it isn't viable to use candles all the time for most people. Even today homes rarely feature rooms without windows. I think the only rooms I have seen without windows are closets, those new toilet-tub separate from sink area bathrooms... That is why entry halls typically are 1.5 to 2 stories high, so that they can have a window to let light in. In fact, now that I think about it, this must be why French doors became so popular: the window (which makes up like 90% of the window) lets light in! Glass has a hardness of 1 and 1 hp/inch, so French windows/doors being like a half a cm thick should probably be Hardness 0 and 1 hp. Finally, construction. Old homes are thicker. More primitive insulation makes walls thicker, doors thicker, windows have shutters (possibly both in and out of the window). Also, walls have strong beams in them to help keep the house up. Now for a regular person to break through a wall, they would use an axe or pick to get rid of the drywall/surface and would easily find a beam and then go around them. But if someone were to "hulk" through a wall, there is a chance of running into one of these beams. For studs, you can either map out where they will be (I think they are about every 5-7 feet) or you can have a percentage chance. However there are a few rules for support beams. 1. There is never a beam right under a window. There might be one around it, but not directly above or below it. But then, if there is a window, why go through the wall? 2. Studs are right around a door, so you can almost start counting from a door. People never barricade a wall, just doors and windows. Modern walls are about 3-4 inches thick, but most of it isn't actually wood, mostly drywall. I would say the typical modern wall is either wood with hollow (a lot of inside walls) or filled with insulation/drywall (all walls that have an outside facing). Knock on your walls and compare the sounds. A hollow wall would probably have two 1-inch wood parts, so hardness 5 and 10 hp. But it should take a while to clear a hole large enough to go through. To clear a 2 by 4 foot section of wall could easily take 5-10 minutes. I would probably just give each 1x1 foot segment the 5 hardness. So if an attack did 24 damage, it would apply the first 15 to one segment (5 to hardness, 10 to damage), then the last 9 to another adjacent part (5 to hardness, 4 damage). Remember though, that if you were to break the perimeter of a piece (assuming there isn't a stud in the middle) the middle will fall out. But Drywall isn't in the rules, I have a few ideas, but you might want to come up with your own stuff. But my thought is that drywall is kind of like concrete in that it isn't pieces of wood placed then nailed together, it is molded. So you can't just cut both ends of a piece and pull it out, you have to break the whole perimeter or scrap it out. So I think it should have less hardness than wood (it isn't that durable) but more hit points than wood. Hardness 0, 15 hp per inch seems to make sense. Air Ducts: Old homes don't have air ducts, they have fireplaces and stoves, they have windows, but there if there isn't central heating/cooling, you won't see air ducts. Now it is possible that it was renovated and now has them. If the entire house is redone and the walls were hollowed out (with the inefficient insulation), ducts (like 3 inch diameter aluminum tubes) were put in with better insulation. Remember some monsters might be able to use air ducts (even if they are ridiculously small). Vampires in D&D can assume a gaseous form. In fact, I can see a vampire spending the money to turn their mansion into the ultimate trap. Well I seem to be rambling now, but I hope it gets you thinking.
Ragitsu 09-22-07, 02:26 PM	A very informative post, JosephKell. Two members of the party have good Listen modifiers (A Dedicated Hero / Fast Hero and a Tough Hero with the Law Enforcement occupation with Listen as skill) and in this particular setting, hearing will be more powerful than sight in these open areas. As for hiding firearms, most people with kids or significant others tend to do this. Most likely in a safe, but other places as well. Though that's neither here nor there. I own SAGA, so I will check out the Treat Injury rules. The monsters in this case are slightly above animal intelligence, but not quite sentient yet (Think Int 3) They have good Strength (16) and use slam attacks. They haven't learned yet the nuances of the mansion itself (three stories, and a basement level) but may do so in time. --- I also have this in mind for "safe rooms": Dead-bolt locks: A standard lock for home security, this simple lock extends a steel bolt from the door to the doorframe to secure the entry. Multiple dead-bolts can be mounted on the same door to increase security. Lighter, domestic dead-bolts are usually of Average construction, but stronger, heavier dead-bolts can be up to High-security quality, increasing the DC of any Disable Device skill check attempting to open the door. --- Some of the walls where renovation / early construction occured will have: Particle board: Sometimes called press board, this cheap composite wooden paneling can be used to bolster the strength of a wall. Aside from its availability and inexpensiveness, particle board’s main advantage is that it absorbs much of the energy transfer from projectiles passing through it. In game terms, this means that the particle board’s Hardness and hit points stack with those of any material it is attached to. (Particle board, Hardness 5, 8 hp/per inch of thickness, Break DC of 12)
joekap 09-24-07, 04:56 PM	For studs, you can either map out where they will be (I think they are about every 5-7 feet) or you can have a percentage chance. However there are a few rules for support beams. actually the standard "stud" is a 2x4 and they are spaces every 1.5 to 2 feet. and arent really for support but rather something act as a base structure for a wall, IE: the things you nail drywall to. also in demolishing alot of older houses most have in addition to studs, small strips of wood running horizontally from stud to stud with about 1/8th of an inch space in between. from floor to ceiling. these where used as added suport for what ever material you used to make the wall. and although they are not super strong they are a pain in the arse to break through, but they do look cool when you smash through them.
JosephKell 09-24-07, 06:54 PM	actually the standard "stud" is a 2x4 and they are spaces every 1.5 to 2 feet. and arent really for support but rather something act as a base structure for a wall, IE: the things you nail drywall to. also in demolishing alot of older houses most have in addition to studs, small strips of wood running horizontally from stud to stud with about 1/8th of an inch space in between. from floor to ceiling. these where used as added suport for what ever material you used to make the wall. and although they are not super strong they are a pain in the arse to break through, but they do look cool when you smash through them.That's right, I must've been thinking of something else.
j0lt 09-27-07, 01:21 PM	actually the standard "stud" is a 2x4 and they are spaces every 1.5 to 2 feet. IIRC, they should be a maximum of 19 inches apart, and evenly spaced. Ragitsu: 1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion? Attacks from behind, above, or below are always a little more frightening. As an Urban Explorer (http://www.wraiths.ca), I've had my share of adventures through abandoned buildings. There's always a lot of dust that SHOULD be undisturbed, unless something that doesn't belong happens to have moved through there recently. Perhaps sets of unidentifiable footprints would make for some good foreshadowing? 2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off? Let them hear things. Particularly with vague descriptions that will allow their imaginations to head over to "scary land". They say you never hear the bullet that gets you. This could work for monsters too. Let the PCs hear things, then when they're concentrating on one sound, something else moves in for the attack. :schemes: 3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery? DRUGS! lol But seriously, why not give a medkit a little bonus to Treat Injury checks for the purpose of recovering hit points? It wouldn't be unbalancing to allow characters to heal up a bit from time to time. 4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets) JosephKell has already mentioned the hunting closet. In remote places, some people keep a shotgun on the mantel. Aside from that, a revolver in the nightstand in the master bedroom would make sense. 5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away? Perhaps opposed checks (Str) for movement, provide some obstacles that could be tipped over into the monster's path (vase on a stand, grandfather clock, etc...). Perhaps a stairway that the PC could jump down to gain a bit of breathing room.
Dex 09-28-07, 10:21 AM	A few questions: 1. What are some good ways to plan a surprise attack when the players are only armed with standard flashlights (It projects a beam 30 feet long and 15 feet across at its end.) down the corridor of an abandoned mansion? Enemies on the ceiling or following at a safe distance behind them. You'd be surprised how many people forget to look up/back (unless they've played an Aliens adventure, or are as paranoid as my players and co-adventurers :P) 2. Do you penalize, and if not, how do you handle characters with exceptional senses (Listen and Spot), in regards that they may make some of the shocks or jump scares hard to pull off? Sometimes the fact that they can hear something that other party members can't can be a really good method of scaring them. If only 1 player hears or sees something, pass it to them on a note instead of telling everyone "He sees something dart past the doorway". That way the players might think he's starting to hallucinate, or something. 3. In a nonmagical campaign, how can I adjust healing to make it slightly more viable if the characters only have 24 hours to solve a mystery?" Don't. Players should be warned that healing is at a minimum, and get them to make backup characters for when (not if) they die. A player might run from encounters they might otherwise charge into fearlessly if they are on low hp and that's what you're aiming for, right? 4. Asides from a security station or safe/vault, what would some good places be within this mansion to hide ammunition? (think shotgun shells, the occasional rifle rounds and a good deal of pistol bullets) Corpses of security guards, the desk draws of someone concerned about their safety might have a revolver or derringer, on top of high shelves (if you haven't seen the end of the Bourne Identity, you should). For a decoy you might have a blunderbuss or something mounted over a fireplace, but it doesn't work because, of course, it's a display piece. 5. How would you handle a "monster chase", before the character gets to a door, slams it behind them and holds it off before it loses interest and moved away?[/QUOTE] Don't forget exhaustion checks if they've been running for a while. It stays interested. More monsters come. It breaks down the door. The monsters might stumble upon another way in - like through the ceiling, ventilation shafts, under the floorboards, windows, etc.
joekap 09-29-07, 05:08 PM	IIRC, they should be a maximum of 19 inches apart, and evenly spaced. yeah something like that. thats the standard in modern homes. but i have found that back in the day not everyone's 19 inches was the same...;) on another note what are those little thin boards that run horazontally called???
j0lt 09-29-07, 09:25 PM	yeah something like that. thats the standard in modern homes. but i have found that back in the day not everyone's 19 inches was the same...;) on another note what are those little thin boards that run horazontally called??? I believe they're called Slats, but I'm not 100% sure.
joekap 09-30-07, 02:05 PM	thats what i thought too but something keeps telling me hey have another name. either way when a monster smashes through or throws someone through them (or a bored guy demoing an old house jumps through them) they look hella cool....like the wall now has ribs pokeing through.
j0lt 09-30-07, 09:18 PM	thats what i thought too but something keeps telling me hey have another name. either way when a monster smashes through or throws someone through them (or a bored guy demoing an old house jumps through them) they look hella cool....like the wall now has ribs pokeing through. Scary inspiration! What if the old abandoned mansion had human ribs for slats?! :eek:
joekap 10-06-07, 01:26 PM	that would be cool, then the walls start oozing some black icor....mmm yummy aspestose (Sp?) and wall blood