Alternate Verison of Weapon Breakage. Would Like Some Help Evaluating The Math.

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#1

graywanderer

Sep 20, 2010 14:17:51
I'm sorry if there's already a ton of these threads and I just didn't see one like what I was looking for.

My players and I all like the idea of the weapon breakage rule, but dislike it's implementation. We feel that the first version, Fumbling Breakage, is a little too unforgiving, and that Reckless Breakage is far too forgiving. We're using the fixed enhancement bonuses, but if you're weilding a weapon you like, for it's powers or properties or whatever, you're not going to willingly break your weapon, and a 1 in 20 chance is also a bit extreme.

I thought of another version, but I'm not certain on the math. I'm looking for something in between the two current breakage rules. I'm going to put variables in places where I'm looking for help, with the value I'm currently thinking of using in parathesis.

So, if on your attack roll you roll a natural (5)X, or less your weapon is endangered. At this point you can either choose to reroll or not. If you choose not to reroll your weapon gets a saving throw, if you reroll, no saving throw. On a failed saving throw (or if your weapon doesn't get a save) your weapon takes a strike. After accumulating (3)Y strikes, your weapon breaks.

In addition, once per extended rest, you may grant one weapon of yours a saving throw. If you succeed, you remove one strike from that weapon.

Metal weapons would get a +(2)Z bonus to all saving throws involved.


Thanks in advance for any help on this. I'm hoping this can be balanced so there's some method of breakage that's somewhere between the two given rules.

If there isn't really any method of fixing the math for this, if you could provide an alternative rule idea, that would also be appreciated.
#2

nightwalker450

Sep 20, 2010 14:34:39
My group is currently using an alternate form of Weapon Breakage for our home brew world (not Athas).  We liked the idea, but also it brought up the possibility of better accuracy...

So on a natural 1, you have to reroll/risk your weapon.  On 5 or less metal breaks, otherwise non-metal break automatically.

But on any roll of 5 or less, you have the option to reroll/risk your weapon by the same rules.

Using Inherent bonuses, we aren't as tied to magic weapons, or any particular weapon.  But for those that want that reckless flare to their character they definitely stand out.  Our Dwarven Knight broke 2 Metal Waraxes, and 1 handaxe all in one battle.  The GM just feels validated that in a battle against 7 enemies, we broke a total of 5 weapons.  The last one broke with flare...  Reroll hit, killing the target with a cleaving Stance, so the follow up was effectively stabbing the broken handle of the handaxe into another creature killing it...

Other rules besides Inherent we are using:
1 hour and 20% value will repair an item.  Metal weapons cost 50 (gp) more to purchase originally (thus an additional 10 gp to repair).  If a magic weapon has broken it can still be disenchanted though you only get 75% of its normal disenchant (actually it was 15% of full value, but starting to think ahead to new rarity system).  Only magic weapons actually require Residuum, or Arcane Components to repair, others we can sometimes scavenge up stuff to repair with.

Our group does have an Artificer (mend Item), and a Warlord with the Quick Fix martial power (surge for 24 hr fix).  So we can get things put in order fairly quickly between battles.
#3

RyndarLocke

Sep 20, 2010 15:32:20
I use the inherint bonuses.

I also use magic items.  Magic Weapons are not subject to breakage for normal use.  Niether are normal weapon presented as new option in the DSCS.  I wanted them to be special in an aditional way.  Metal Weapons ARE subject to breakage unless magical.

I do not use the breakage options in the DSCS.

Instead anytime you roll MAX damage for your weapon, it breaks.

Yes I am aware this is very unforgiving, my players love it.
#4

Kye_Tyrad

Sep 20, 2010 15:35:09
Our group modified the fumbling breakage rule to add that on nat 1 the character roles a saving throw.  Non-metal weapons a 10 or better saves, and weapon enhancements add to the saving throw.  Metal weapons a roll of 6 or better saves with the same benefits for weapon enhancements.  So on a nat 1 and a saving throw of 1 the weapons breaks regardless. 

We have discussed allowing the metal weapons to bend instead of break if they roll between a 6-9.
#5

furiousgreg

Sep 20, 2010 17:24:16
Our group modified the fumbling breakage rule to add that on nat 1 the character roles a saving throw.  Non-metal weapons a 10 or better saves, and weapon enhancements add to the saving throw.  Metal weapons a roll of 6 or better saves with the same benefits for weapon enhancements.  So on a nat 1 and a saving throw of 1 the weapons breaks regardless. 

We have discussed allowing the metal weapons to bend instead of break if they roll between a 6-9.



I think this is a good start, especially if you use the bending bit. I would go further though and say for metal weapons if you fumble and then roll you Break on a 1 and bend or blunt the edge on a 2-5. Bending/Blunting keeps the weapon properties but reduces damage by one die type (ie. D8 to a D6 etc.).

Keep in mind that metal weapons are not just a little more resilient than stone, obsidian, bone etc., they are vastly superior. Even a Bronze blade which is softer than Iron, rarely breaks unless it's more than a couple of feet long and even then it's likely to bend long before it breaks. You can literally bend a bronze blade into a U before it will break. Iron is harder than bronze and though it wont bend as far before breaking it's hardness makes it much more difficult to bend in the first place. I have an iron stage sword (30" blade) that for 20+ years was used for stage combat, and a lot worse (one moron tried to break a brick with it) and except for a lot nicks it's fine.
By the time you get to steel the only way to break it is to actively try and break it, and it's still going to be pretty hard to do. I also have a couple of real high quality steel fighting swords, which I've done a little training with, and I've seen sword, spear, axe and hammer fights (not SCA or stage fighting but actual armored fighting with blunted weapons) and I've never seen a weapon break.

Obsidian is glass and though it's sharp as hell and will easily cut flesh to the bone, it will chip or break when it strikes anything like it or harder on the first hit, even softer items if it's a shearing motion. Anything longer than 6" or so, will likely shatter if it hits something harder.
Stone is similar and when I was a Scout we made a stone axe, spear and skinning tool as part of survival training, and because it's harder and attached to wood it can take more punishment than obsidian. The down side is that it doesn't get or keep as sharp an edge. None the less a few good hits on something and the stone will chip or crack and eventually break as well.

Laminated wood or bone, or creature scales and teeth. Well there are no real examples of edged melee weapons made of these materials to judge. I have used wooden practice swords, seen people fight with Bo staffs and such and they are pretty resilient and don't often break, but they are basically just clubs. The Aztecs and Mayans used clubs, spears, and arrows edged or tipped with obsidian that were effective against unarmored opponents, but even then they had to replace those obsidian chips after each battle.

Anyway, I think the weapon breakage rules are fine and quite playable in the not terribly realistic and abstract D&D combat system, with the exception that metal weapons should almost never break in comparison to non-metal ones. Blunt, bend a little, sure, but break, not unless they are hitting another equal or stronger metal weapon or the person is actively trying to break it. So I would just excuse metal weapons entirely from breakage.

~FG


PS. Also just to take it a bit further, non-metal edged weapons are pretty much ineffective against metal armor, you might as well just have a club. You may do blunt damage, but you will never get through the metal. Ask the the Aztecs and Mayans, it wasn't the matchlocks that won those battles, it was the steel.
#6

claytonm

Sep 21, 2010 7:51:21
For simplicity's sake I am going to be using the following rules: (stolen from games such as Diablo and WoW).

If you roll a one: Make a saving throw.
Succeed Throw: Weapon is unharmed.
Fail throw: Lose 1 point of durability. 

Non-Metal Weapons: 2 points of durability.
Metal weapons: (3 or 4) points of durability (I haven't decided yet).
Magic Weapons: Extra durability equal to their enchancement.

Character's can roll saving throws with craft checks to repair weapons adding 1 point of durability back with each roll. 

Players can just put a tic next to their weapons to keep track of wear and tear.
#7

graywanderer

Sep 21, 2010 10:27:36
Thanks to everyone who's replied so far. I really appreciate the new ideas and input.
#8

bryan721

Sep 21, 2010 13:51:49
Reckless Breakage

Rerolled attack is a...

1 (Breaks Steel)
5 or Lower (Breaks Iron)
10 or Lower (Breaks Bronze)
15 or Lower (Breaks Obsidian, Stone, Wood, Bone)

Magic weapon bonus adjusts natural roll
A natural 1 on the reroll always breaks weapon

Reckless Breakage reroll does not remove granting
combat advantage from the previous fumble roll


Critique encouraged Wink
#9

furiousgreg

Sep 21, 2010 15:41:15
Reckless Breakage

Rerolled attack is a...

1 (Breaks Steel)
5 or Lower (Breaks Iron)
10 or Lower (Breaks Bronze)
15 or Lower (Breaks Obsidian, Stone, Wood, Bone)

Magic weapon bonus adjusts natural roll
A natural 1 on the reroll always breaks weapon

Reckless Breakage reroll does not remove granting
combat advantage from the previous fumble roll
Critique encouraged



Well most people get the properties of Iron and Steel confused because very few things we use are actually made out of just iron anymore, and almost no one has anything made out of bronze. Believe it or not most Iron is more likely to break than Bronze. Bronze is softer and resists metal fatigue (structural damage that occurs through constant use) better than Iron, and even some steel. A Bronze weapon will bend where an Iron one will break. The real advantage of iron is it's hardness because it holds an edge better and has greater penetration, but that hardness comes at the cost of brittleness. Iron can be tempered to make it softer and more likely to bend then break, but even tempered it's still fatigues easer and is more brittle than Bronze. Steel is the best of both worlds, hardness and flexibility.

So with this in mind I would support a two roll system something like the following:
Roll a (then roll a save)
1 (Steel - Roll a save - on 1 breaks, 2-5 bends)
5 or Lower (Iron - Roll a save - on 1-5 breaks, 6-10 bends)
5 or Lower (Bronze - Roll a save - on 1-2 breaks, 3-15 bends)
15 or Lower (Breaks Obsidian, Stone, Wood, Bone)

Breaks (metal): the blade can be repaired at a suitable forge.
Bending/Blunting: keeps the weapon properties but reduces damage by one die type (ie. D8 to a D6 etc.) can be repaired without a Forge.