Post/Author/DateTime	Post
#1 homicidal_squirrel Dec 16, 2011 23:23:09	www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-autos-oil...
#2 Cpt_Micha Dec 17, 2011 9:08:59	we had cast-iron block engines with cast-iron pistons that would expand when they got hot and older lubricants," Mazor said... Wow this article proves they know nothing. most engines and pistons are STILL cast iron, with iron pistons... to top that off Aluminum (the other material we use in engine blocks) is MORE prone to wear. Ontop of that, metal shavings get built up in the botttom of the pan and sucked into the oil pump. The longer you go without changes, the more likely it is these shavings will cause an oil pump failure.... which means unless you shut the car down -immediately- upon losing pressure you will ruin the engine. What an idiot. "Our new generation of engines have tighter internal tolerances, which reduces the amount of carbon and other products from combustion that gets into the oil," said Richard Truett, a Ford spokesman   Now this is much much more accurate.  That being said, this is how to know when to change your oil. One you can go purchase 15,000, 10,000, 7,500, and 5,000 mile Oil From Mobil One. I recommend the 15k for obvious reasons. And it's a full synthetic, the best or second best on the market at any given time. Check it's color on the dipstick via wiping it on a white paper towel. If it's really dark, and gritty seeming the car is over due for an oil change. Also, if it smells burnt it's due. If it's a golden color, it's pretty much still fresh and you don't have to worry about it. If it's more of a light brown you should probably consider changing it. You should always -check- your oil every 3,000 miles for both it's color, and the level of oil in the engine. Even modern engines which are greatly more wear resistant, lose oil. It happens. There's no such thing as a perfect seal for piston rings, valves, valve guides, intake manifolds. Some eventually invariably gets into the combustion chamber, or outside the engine via a leak either around the Main seals, oil pan gasket, drainplug gasket, valve covers you get the idea. This oil is lost to the engine. Low oil levels cause the oil to work much harder as it has to lubricate the engine with less oil. Which means it gets hotter and wears faster. Also don't skimp out on a cheap oil filter, get a nice one such as the K&N performance (most of the time it costs around 12-13 dollars) or the Mobil One Extended Performance Filter. This can greatly increase oil life in a vehicle even with non synthetic.  Going the full 15k on a service interval though unless it is a full on synthetic and then the only ones I'd do it with are Mobil One's Extended 15k performance, Valvoline, or Royal Purple Synthetics, is going to cause sludge buildup on any vehicle, which greatly reduces the performance of the oil pump, and circulation system in the oil galleys. Which can again lead to Failure. Hence the need to -check- it every 3k.